Slave Girls and Pickled Heads The Spectacular Life and Finds of Max von Oppenheim

Max Freiherr von Oppenheim-Stiftung, Köln


Part 2: Amazing Discoveries in the Desert

The businesses Oppenheim pursued on the side were failures. His coffee plantation in Tanzania almost went bankrupt. The chairman of Deutsche Bank characterized his plans for an industrial zone near the planned Baghdad railroad as "drivel."

The German adventurer met with very little success in World War I, too. To this day, the British see him as a "master spy" because he founded the magazine El Jihad in 1914 in an effort to incite the Arabs to wage a holy war against the British and French occupiers in the Middle East. But his adversary Lawrence of Arabia, whom he knew personally, was far more successful at fomenting revolts.

Still, when it came to archeology, the baron did very little wrong. He hired the best architects, and he broke new ground in the way he documented his finds. He also spared no expense in excavating Tell Halaf, the site of a lost city on a hill.

In 1911, Oppenheim set out into the desert with 1,000 camels carrying 21 tons of expedition gear, including wagons and 800 meters of rail track. It had been an unusually harsh winter in northern Mesopotamia, and the stinking cadavers of animals littered the sand.

His excavation team included up to 500 Bedouins, as well as a doctor, cooks, a photographer and several skilled excavation experts.

Just beneath the surface, the excavators found stone sphinxes, lions and dark basalt panels bearing reliefs of ships, camels and club-wielding dignitaries. The reliefs had once adorned the "Western Palace" built long ago by a mysterious King Kapara.

'My Desert Palace'

While the excavations were underway, the dig's organizer sat in his expedition house outfitted with the finest carpets ("my desert palace"), working diligently at a large desk. And then, of course, there were the marauding locals he had to keep at bay.

With all of these distractions, it isn't surprising that he made a few mistakes. On one occasion, he coined the misleading term "temple palace," and on another he declared that Guzana belonged to a 5,000-year-old "culture of most ancient Mesopotamia" when half as many years would have sufficed.

But he could be forgiven for his blunders. German archeologists who have been working at the site since 2006 have also had trouble determining the age of the ruins, in part because of the paucity of objects bearing writings among the finds.

It is now clear that, like Jesus, the residents spoke Aramaic and lived through a prosperous era starting around 1,000 B.C. Ironically, it was during the "dark centuries," when the Assyrians, Greeks and Egyptians were faltering and the Hittite empire disintegrated completely, that Guzana's star began to shine.

A massive citadel was built there during this period, along with a palace surrounded by walls 10 meters (33 feet) high. The settlement lay next to a tributary of the Euphrates, which brought ships all the way to the Indian Ocean. The source of the city's wealth probably derived from the carved tusks of Mesopotamian elephants.

It wasn't until the Assyrians regained strength and began exacting tribute from their small neighbor that Guzana's prosperous times came to an end. The Western Palace was burned down during an uprising in 808 B.C.

Of course, when he first exposed the façade of the massive building, Oppenheim didn't know any of this. He soon found sacrificial vessels and gold jewelry.

Interrupted by War

Then World War I began, and the excavator returned to his luxury apartment on the Kurfürstendamm, Berlin's famous theater and upscale shopping boulevard. After his fortune melted away during the Great Depression, the "uncle from fairytale land" was forced to turn to his relatives in Cologne for help.

Nevertheless, despite being "destitute," as he phrased it, Oppenheim soon managed to close an unbelievable deal. In 1927, he returned to his "fairy tale land" and persuaded officials with the French Mandate of Syria, established by the League of Nations after World War I, to give him the finds from Tell Halaf.

Still, he never did get the gold jewelry, which somehow found its way to Istanbul. Even today, there are questions about its exact location. When the curators in Berlin asked Turkish officials to borrow the jewelry for the exhibit, they received nothing but prevarication. It's even possible that the glittering rings and brooches were stolen or lost through sheer negligence, but Lutz Martin, the curator, prefers not to comment on the matter.

Life under the Nazis

Oppenheim's life under the Nazis was hardly any less adventurous than before.

On Jan. 30, 1933, when Adolf Hitler was sworn in as Reich Chancellor and his supporters marched through the Brandenburg Gate in a torchlight procession, Oppenheim was sitting with the New York press magnate Cornelius Vanderbilt in a nearby dance hall. All of a sudden, half-drunk men burst into the establishment and shouted: "Jews out!"

It was a horrible signal, and one that would not leave Oppenheim unaffected. Indeed, the 1935 Nuremberg Laws on race classified him into a "half-breed of the first degree," a group occupying a gray zone between tolerance and persecution.

Oppenheim quickly felt the brunt of the brutal shift. Berlin's highest-ranking museum official scoffed at his family, saying it was a "Jewish contamination" of European nobility. But the official's real goal was to take all the credit for the treasures of Tell Halaf.

Despite these problems, Oppenheim still enjoyed good connections, and friends in the Foreign Ministry and the financial world protected him.

When the owner of a private bank used anti-Semitic slurs against him, Oppenheim challenged his rival to a duel with pistols and began practicing his marksmanship. The case eventually went before a Berlin court of honor, which ordered the banker to apologize.

Indeed, Oppenheim did everything he could to defend his legacy. In a speech before Nazi dignitaries, he went so far as to flatly ascribe his statues to the "Aryan" culture, and he even received support from the Nazi government.

Final Trip

In March 1939, a 78-year-old Oppenheim made his last trip to the Orient. Little is known of the trip, though the purpose was reportedly to resume his dig in Syria before his permit expired.

Still, there are some questions about whether there was more to it than that. The trip was paid for by a special fund administered by Hermann Göring, the head of Germany's air force and leading Nazi, who collected stolen paintings and antiques from all over Europe.

Once back in Germany, Oppenheim lived in Munich, where he witnessed the demise of the Third Reich in person. His finds had been bombed to bits in Berlin, and he had few treasures left to his name. Soon thereafter, in 1946, he died of old age.

Translated from the German by Christopher Sultan


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BTraven 01/31/2011
It's remarkable that scientists managed to put the stones together. I can't help but think that it must have been a boring job for which you need a lot of enthusiasm. It's like the jigsaw puzzles Falcon is famous for – you do not know how they look because the picture on the case is different from the one of the jigsaw. The documentary already broadcast by ARTE is as interesting as the article. Unfortunately, it can't be watched on the net anymore.
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